If it’s Sunday, we must be in Bologna. 

We checked out of our hotel (after a hearty Sunday morning breakfast) and hit the road to spend the day in busy, bustling Bologna, a city famous for its food and, it turns out, some amazing churches. It also happens to be the final resting place of St. Dominic. (More on that later…)

Bologna is teeming, even on Sunday. Lots of tourists, shoppers and locals just out for a stroll.

And food! Want pasta? Cheese? Ham? Look no further.

For starters, we visited a remarkable church reputed to be one of the largest in the world, the Basilica of San Petronio. 

Back in the 14th century, it was planned to be the largest anywhere, until the pope at the time decided his little church in Rome should hold that distinction. The Bologna basilica as it stands today is still a jaw-dropping work — even if it is only half-finished. (The upper portions look noticeably incomplete.)

Inside, it is massive.

It is notable for one dramatic side chapel, featuring a fresco that depicts the final judgement.

A short walk from the basilica, you’ll find an outdoor fountain depicting Neptune and women who are spouting water from, well, everywhere.

After gawking at all this for a time, we headed down the street and took a break for lunch, After yet another meal of, what else, pasta, we walked to another legendary Bologna basilica, named for Saint Dominic. 

This is where we celebrated Sunday Mass — and it just happens to be where the great saint himself is interred.

We were privileged to have our Mass in the side chapel where Dominic’s remains remain.

The way the chapel is set-up meant that Mass was celebrated ad orientem — a first for Deacons Peter Nixon and Nick Rocco.

Pete’s wife Gina was our lector, and Pete preached the homily.

The altar and the marble case containing Dominic’s relics combine for a really a stunning piece of work.

As Wikipedia describes it:

This is the main chapel of the church. It has a square plan and a semi-circular apse, where the remains of the saint rest in the splendid Arca di San Domenico under the cupola which contains three Michelangelo  sculptures, Angel, St. Proclus, and St. Petronius.

The Dominicans evidently do a brisk business with Masses for tourists, as well as local Catholics. Father Ferdi told me the priests said they have close to 60 friars living in the adjoining monstery.

For a short time Sunday, the Dominicans had some additional help, as the deacons on hand swelled by two.

After Mass, it was back to the bus and on to Assisi, three hours away. As we headed down the main road to enter the town, night had fallen. But we could see Assisi aglow on a nearby hill.

We settled into our rooms and made our way downstairs for dinner.

Tomorrow, we tackle Assisi!

Footnote: As I wrap up today’s report at our hotel, I’m working in the lobby. The wifi is poor upstairs, and pretty spotty.  At this moment, a little before 11 pm, I’m the only one down here besides a porter and someone at the front desk.  The sound system is playing some jazzy music. “Get your kicks on Route 66…”

I have to smile. I’m a long way from Route 66.

To be continued …